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What are you running
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Discussion Starter #581
- All these Cars are in the same Class (for reference purposes)
this cannot be substantiated, for example, the white car above is unknown
this is known, not conjecture. All are in the same class

- All these Cars have stiff suspensions, and hug the ground
"stiffness" cannot be determined by a picture. Using even your own above post as an example, an M3 does not, generally, have a "stiff" suspension. Nor does a car need to "hug the ground" to have good chassis reflexes. A picture of a car "laying frame" does not imply high skid pad numbers.
Not really debatable. Lower Center of Gravity is the Definition of Advantage

- All these Cars have close-to-square tire setups
again, with a simple picture this is solely conjecture
I obviously have far better vision than you

- All these Cars have some sort of Fender Flares
Not all...
Look closer, all have

- All these Cars have somewhat deep wheel Dishes
dish would of course have more to do with aesthetics than proving some sort of suspension, chassis or tire superiority. Face depth, offset and wheel width are not necessarily congruent.
What are you talking about here - this is showing that from above front wheel scrub is minimal, or acceptable. I'm targeting minimum of 2" of Fender Flare, which will still keep Geometry about correct
 

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You're certifiable if you think you can prove BS with a one word retort when the proof to the contrary is so well documented and known

>> Setup - Stage I

  • Engine
  • Full Bolton: Volant Induction System (TRUE CAI), LS3 MAF, NW P-TB, FAST 102 P-IM, ATI Super Damper, Kooks Signature Stepped Longtubes, no Cats, Borla Catback (~500hp)
    Fairy dust- you need aftermarket cylinder heads (or a strip only 243 port job), cam w/230+ .600+ specs, REAL CAI not the Volant hot air system, and unless its only for dyno runs, a better fuel system w/#42 injectors. THEN you will have a motor suitable ONLY for drag racing as the power wont come in til 3500rpm. Dont believe me, go to LS1tech and search "what does it take to make 500hp"- a topic done to death, you wont even make 500 CRANKSHAFT hp with your stuff
  • Suspension & Brakes
  • WMS Road & Track Suspension (includes Coilovers, Hotchkis, Eccentric Bushings, and Camber Plates), R/F Lowered to Level Suspension Geometry, Corner Weighted, Stainless Steel Braided Brakelines, Stoptech Slotted Rotors, Aggressive Hawk Pads, Motul Synthetic Fluid
  • Drivetrain & Rolling Stock
  • GMM Ripshift, Lightweight Flywheel & Clutch, MPSS (the only compromise...for budget reasons, until I can afford an independent Racing Set), Lightweight Wheels, [Unlimited] Fender Flares Ok --> 325/305
  • Body & Chassis
  • Lighter Relocated Battery, Integrated Front Spoiler with Winglets, Adjustable 10" Rear Spoiler
  • Electronics
  • Fully HPT Tuned, Latest V1, Top-of-the-Line Garmin, Remote Backup Camera, G-Tech Pro...

>> Weight Reduction - Stage I
  • Front
- BMR Skidplate (10), Hotchkis Front Swaybar (7), Coilovers (10), UDP (5), Relocated Battery & Components (38), Lightweight Brackets and Seats (40), Resonator (5), Cats (25), Long Tube Headers (15), Lighter Clutch and Flywheel (18)A good move if you had a 200hp 6 banger- you need stock weight to minimize the power hit with an LS​
- Savings of 173lbs {2025lbs --> 1852lbs}​
  • Rear
- Spare Tire and Accessories (45), Hotchkis Rear Swaybar (5), Coilovers (10)ZERO savings, BC etc are same type and weight as stock- rears actually ARE NOT coilovers, Lightweight Brackets and Seats (40), Resonator (5), Catback (20), Lighter Battery & Components (+35)NO, You'll add 15lbs of wire and a box- only a retard would do that and NOT add a cutoff switch too, real world- +20lbs on top of your 35​
- Savings of 90lbs {1725lbs --> 163lbs}​
  • Total
- Saves, 263lbs, Final Curb Weight, 3487lbs, R/F Weight Difference --> 217lbs, 47%/53% R/F Weight Distribution​
Bottom line is simple, your mods are no different(beyond seats) than the average built street car here, check the "what does your car weight"treads, no one is below 3600s and most are in the 3700s.

 

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Yes he is, its a tertiary corollary to the first rule of autocross:
1) you must have a car to autocross
-the car must move
-the car must have wheels to move, skis, maglev, wings etc are not permitted
- the wheels must have room to rotate and steer so it can move

I guess it would be cruel to point out flares are not required to meet the requirement as its clear he has his heart set on flares


YOU'RE RIGHT!

YOU'RE GODDAMN RIGHT!
 

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What are you running
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Discussion Starter #592
You're certifiable if you think you can prove BS with a one word retort when the proof to the contrary is so well documented and known
You are still not classified :crapfan:

Bottom line is simple, your mods are no different(beyond seats) than the average built street car here, check the "what does your car weight"treads, no one is below 3600s and most are in the 3700s.
Show me even one car setup for ESP AX (let alone any other class), and I might give you more of my time.. :goghey:
 

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What are you running
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Discussion Starter #596
Even More Competition (Including Aerodynamics)


Look at the size of the Rubber (for better implementation of Lateral Grip)
 

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What are you running
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Discussion Starter #598
Check it Out


- Fender Flares
- Really wide almost Square Tires
- Moderately low to the Ground
- Built-in Aerodynamics
- Moderately Deep Dish
 

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Show me that you own ANY car now and I'll upgrade you to worthless post whore from worthless bitch-ass wannabe


You are still not classified :crapfan:



Show me even one car setup for ESP AX (let alone any other class), and I might give you more of my time.. :goghey:
 

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