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Discussion Starter #1
The GTO is headed for the knife Monday. I am headed in a somewhat different direction than other installs here by keeping the stock head unit. Equipment going in next week:


I will also be removing the rear deck speakers to let more bass/air flow from the trunk area. 0 guage power will run from the battery, amp and symmetry will be mounted to the gas tank (not directly of course), caps will be mounted on the left side of the gas tank (again not directly), the speaker level converter will be put in line before the trunk amp (so goes the theory), RCA cables will be put in behind the unit to the trunk (just in case stock doesn't work), the two subs will be angled up towards the rear deck in two seperate very small boxes.

Pictures will follow. Suggestions, advice, etc. is welcomed and encouraged.
 

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good luck w/ your setup. I had origionally planed on keeping the stocker HU, but opted for MP3 & Satellite playability. I'm sure it will sound great. Please post pics.
 

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Run your speaker level adapter off the rear kick panel speakers. You loose fader ability, but this is the only hook up where there's a full signal running that I'm aware of.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Jodi said:
Run your speaker level adapter off the rear kick panel speakers. You loose fader ability, but this is the only hook up where there's a full signal running that I'm aware of.
I was going on some info posted here that the sub ran off the rear speaker line and then crossed it over in the amp. I will try there first (since it is easy), but if it is just sub output running to the amp I will switch to the rear.
 

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Usually the Rear Speaker line carries the whole signal.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well, I melted the rear speakers in a wiring accident. Stuff happens I suppose, but in a pinch I ran down to HiFi Buys (Tweeter to some) and found the JL Audio 6W0. An actual 6.5" subwoofer. We are going to try an mount these puppies in the rear deck just to see what they can do. I won't know till this evening, but I am hoping they can run the 90-150hz range and sound good doing it.
 

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straegen said:
Well, I melted the rear speakers in a wiring accident. Stuff happens I suppose, but in a pinch I ran down to HiFi Buys (Tweeter to some) and found the JL Audio 6W0. An actual 6.5" subwoofer. We are going to try an mount these puppies in the rear deck just to see what they can do. I won't know till this evening, but I am hoping they can run the 90-150hz range and sound good doing it.
If you look on JLAudio's web site, they say the 6W0 is not intended as an infinite baffle speaker. They say to use the XR650-CW 6.5" woofer from their component set.
 

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Fast GTO said:
Usually the Rear Speaker line carries the whole signal.
They do, but if you take them at the speaker, realize you will be hooking up your Hi-lo inputs in parallel with the stock sub amp. It might lead to a nasty ground loop.

In the passenger front side kick panel, there is a large white connector (C200 on the wiring diagrams I believe). If you splice in there, and then disconnect the stock tweeters, you will be the only load on the HU for a HI-LO convertor.

I did this without disconnecting the stock tweeters, and had a nasty ground loop, that once the tweets were disconnected, and the sub amp disconnected in the trunk, went away.

Use miscreants wiring diagrams via our second sticky. They are a lifesaver.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
LazyBastard said:
If you look on JLAudio's web site, they say the 6W0 is not intended as an infinite baffle speaker. They say to use the XR650-CW 6.5" woofer from their component set.
I made a simple fiberglass enclosure. I couldn't put them in the rear deck, but did manage to put them in the rear speaker locations without a problem. They sound fantastic especially for an 80 dollar speaker. Course they are only pushing around 80-140, but it works.

This trick did allow me to seal off the trunk to get rid of the fuel pump whine without losing bass this way. The only downside so far is a nasty rattle coming from the rear grills. I have to go back and kill that.
 
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