Revshift.

 

Are the poly mounts ruff? Seen a lot of people ask but not a lot of actual responses…

 

I don't have the answer but I can tell you that Kooks recommends new stock height engine mounts and the front subframe alignment tool to make sure you're subframe is in the correct place before installing their headers.

 

Yeah I never saw that before my install but after reading on this forum I see it’s a more common issue than I knew… if a simple replacement doesn’t fix it I’ll likely go ahaead and try the alignment stuff and/ or shims

 

Im running Hinson mounts.

 

Go full metal mounts!

 

I daily drive it lol

 

I used and loved custom made solid mounts. Snappier response to the throttle.

 

I do recall when I initially installed the headers I did bend one of the PS hard lines where it enters the rack to provide some PS line to header clearance.

 

I didn't have to do anything to the rack other than drop it and put it back up for my Dynatech's on my '04.

 

A Dynatech brother!!!!

 

Installing revshifts rn wish me luck!

 

Luck?

 

Never know what bolt might be a b lol

 

 

Hey everybody just noticed this heat shield/ brace seems to be contacting my headers which may prevent me from jacking up the engine (not sure yet)… very weird I’m not sure if anyone else has ran into this issue before but it seems novel to me

 

Not the whole shield even but just that lower bolt / stud ,,, I’m not sure how I didn’t notice this after install or how it didn’t prevent me from install but it’s like full contacting it

 

Another reason I removed the gusset and cut down the studs.

 

Yeah think I’m gonna have to unbolt the headers up top and remove the bracket and I’m gonna just dremel the bottom stud off ,… looks like I’m pulling an all nighter tonight tho lol

 

I had to cut down the top one with my Dynatechs. Gotta love that long tubes life.

 

 

So I banged out the bottom one with a hammer and I will now re attach the headers to the engine…. Then I will finally unbolt the top and bottoms of the engine mounts and get started on what I wanted to do

 

Alright everybody finished the install… wasn’t too bad,,, car doesn’t shake at idle much at all now and the shifter doesn’t wobble at all,,, noticeable vibration under acceleration arround 2700 or so , otherwise very smooth feeling and only a tiny bit of peddle vibration at idle…. But what I originally installed for (lifting the engine up to avoid hitting steering is still not solved lol, ig I’ll just have to see about getting some washers made to slip in that will hopefully lift it enough.

 

nah, something else is wrong.

 

What would u say is wrong then? Say it’s a subframe alignment issue or something I am truthfully to broke to go to a shop and try to figure out something like that… a washer lift seems much more reasonable to me…

 

lifting the engine even more isn't going to give you more clearance between the headers and the rack. you're moving the headers up as well. imho that would just make it worse.

i can see if the mounts are shot and are causing movement or a weird drivetrain angle and that's causing contact. but you fixed that.

 

That makes sense,,, ig the most viable solution may be just taking em off and dinging em in on the few spots of contact ,,, it’s the primary coming off my 3rd driver cylinder that’s contacting so

 

The only other solution I have is to take the header off and dent it to avoid the spots which may even be easier/ simpler to do I’m not sure what route I’ll go,,,

 

not sure.

you never did provide pictures of where it is contacting.

 

It’s cuz I made another post with those pictures but I’ll post here too:

 

The old lines rubbed though and began to leak,,, replaced them but they still contact

 

ah, now i see.

honestly, loosening the rack bolts and sliding over as far to the driver side as it will go, and tightening it back down could help. you might need a wheel realignment afterward. you might also just try bending the lines slightly out of the way, and putting a high-heat silicone sleeve over the area where it is rubbing. you might be right in that putting a small strategically placed dent in the primary could help. it looks like you wacked at it already, but you don't want to bend the primary out of the way, you just want to create a space around the line.

i was wrong about where i thought it was hitting, too. i took a quick look at my own car and saw how the lines are routed. although, i still don't think raising the engine will help, looking at the witness mark of where it was rubbing. i would still avoid getting the driveline angles too out of wack.

 

Yeah I’m not sure how I’m gonna fix this ,,, and I did already try banging them in while it was on the car and that didn’t work at all,,, and I also tried sliding the rack over as much as possible and that also didn’t work, and now I’ve tried replacing the motor mounts and that too didn’t work

 

1 7/8 primaries?

anyway, remove the driver side header, heat up that spot where there is contact until it's glowing hot, work it with a ball peen. i think stainless is too stiff to work cold, you'll just end up with a bunch of marks like you got there.

 

Beat mine a 4lb mini

 

Best method I've found for denting a stainless (or regular steel) header is to lay a large socket on the spot needing the dent and whacking the socket with a hammer. Makes a nice smooth dent with a gentle radius.

 

That looks like it will have to be my move… sucks to f up some nice headers like this tho but gotta do what u gotta do

 

Throwing it off of a cliff might work, too.