How does that lifter wheel roll in comparison to the others? Any noise when it rolls? I had a total lifter failure without any noise until the lifter tick. Make sure to check the corresponding cam lobe and see if it has wear on it. If you’re already that far and have them out, I’d pony up money for a good set of lifters so you don’t have to worry about it again.

I would also suggest going ahead with a CHE Trunnion kit to make sure your valvetrain stays reliable. All of my stuff has been documented on my Chevy SS that I sold my GTO to get into to have a lifter/cam failure a month later.

https://www.ls1gto.com/threads/new-to-me-chevy-ss.851228/?post_id=21984423#post-21984423

 

I didn’t see anything unusual. I’ll have to look again. I already have a reunion kit installed. I already ordered some morel 7717 lifters. Lifter didn’t sound any different from all the others.

 

Can’t see anything in the pic. Pulled them out of stock cars and “aftermarket” lifters with the same wear. And put them back in cars.

 

The lifter in the center has a wear line that the others dont

 

I’ve heard a lot of issues with people getting LS7 lifters, but they are very hard to 100% confirm you got real ones as there is no clear markings on them to confirm. Hopefully only a lifter issue and that the new ones will solve it. Also assuming you measured for new pushrods after head swap?

 

I checked pushrod length using the turn method and was at a turn and a quarter. The heads were just 799 ported and polished.

 

Is it a Comp Cam?

 

How many miles are on the lifters including high rpm runs? Were the lifters loosely in the trays?

 

50 miles. Only did probably 10 wot pulls on them including tuning pulls. Was getting a chirping squealing noise from the engine. Wasn’t the belts or tensioners

 

Greetings Guys; These are my OE lifters after 43,000 miles back in 2020. Up to this point the engine had never been open. Years earlier back in 2014 I had sent a typed letter to Comp with my signature & Ph # about a rocker problem. I got a call from Rick Sparks (VP @ Comp at that time & on the board of Driven oil) about a week later. We hit it off as we both had owned L 78 Rats back in the day. I ask about loading (Lbs. Per Sq inch), that question led to hours & 4 phone calls over the next few weeks. He filled my head with more loading info than I'll ever remember. I'll try hit the high spots, those hair line grooves on the rollers are from contamination that the synthetic oil would NOT carry away. During comp's testing they learned that the tiniest piece of grit would just get trapped between the cam lobe & the roller! No mater how clean you are with an open engine grit will get in. So he drummed it into my head that the first two oil changes after an open engine will "require" petroleum based break in oil. It's designed to carry grit away & back to the filter. First change 50 miles or 1/2 hour. Second batch up to 500 miles or 5 hours. Then switch to some Synthetic with ZDDP, usually a 5-30 or 5-40 depending on your bearing clearance. Please keep in mind that the last "little" bit of ZDDP was removed from shelf oil back in 2007. He also mentioned that most cam-lifter failure is related to Mobil 1 or other off the shelf oils (no ZDDP)! GM & the other manufactures go to great effort to keep the cam ramps & spring pressure within the limits of the off the shelf oils. But then us Hot Rod types come along & swap cams with faster ramp speeds increasing the lifter- lobe (PSI) load & then put heaver springs on to keep the rollers on the lobe. Guess what, you just increased the loading a "bunch" & now need ZDDP if ya want it to live past 20,000 miles. That scratch on the lifter roller has compromised the surface & with time it will grow into a problem sometime before the 20,000 mile time line. Ole' Bob. Ps; Search Driven oil bearing clearance chart, very informative.

 

Nice explanation. Combined with worn lifter trays, this will result in a chewed-up lifter roller and cam lobe. The worn lifter trays will cause the lifter to twist slightly more over time.

 

Bearing Clearance & Oil Viscosity Recommendations

Engine bearings and motor oil go hand in hand. An oil film protects and cools the engine bearings, and that oil film is formed by a combination of crankshaft speed, oil viscosity and engine load. Because all motor oils get thinner as they get hotter, it is important to choose the correct...

www.drivenracingoil.com.au