There's a third way, The dealer installed mine and they dropped the cradle a couple of inches. I know this doesn't help, But I thought I'd throw it out there.
Good luck!

 

i think dropping the cradle would be the easiest way, even with a jack and stands.

 

Unless I am missing something, this does not seem very constructive for a jackstand / garage install...

 

i tried it without dropping the rack and ended up doing it anyways. if i was to do it again i'd drop the rack right away. bending the lines and then trying to line them back up again was the biggest problem. if i'd just dropped the rack i would have been fine. get the car way up in the air and put the driver's side in from the bottom. it's not too bad but be patient. it does take a while.

 

you have to drop the rack and it is a easy install just follw the instructions. 6 hrs with hand tools and drinking. you need a tune to get the most of it. my car was running slower with the headers without the tune.

 

Already have the tune-- thaks for the advice though. This is a daily driver so I am going conservative. I got the SLP Preditor and have been running it for a couple of days w/ the 421 tune. Really wakes the car up. Could not say that HP is any better from the butt-dyno, but responsiveness is definetly there. Milage is down a little. I don't really care that much, but I heard that it would go up a point or two... Could be the way I am driving after the tune too.

I had a really bad experience running lean w/ my former car-- 342 mustang. Valve seats on cylinders 2, 3 & 4 were shot. But, on 70% compression, I was still running the 1/4 mi in 13.0 and surprising the hell out of the Porsches, M's and AMGs around the Boca area-- but had all this crap coming out of the tailpipe...

I am trying to apply lessons learned for a DD this time around. Reliable daily driver power is the name of the game for me.

 

Ok, they are in.

About 8-10 hrs from tear down to install. About 30% of it was working on the driver's side header. Add another hr or two for beers and neighbors... Had to lossen the steering rack, but did not *have* to disconnect the lines-- would have been much easier if I did.

Sure the pros know this stuff already, but here are some tips for anyone else doing a DYI/garage install:
- Almost everything is metric except probably the replacement steering nut from SLP
- Air socket wrench is a very, very, very nice to have.
- connect the O2 extensions before laying in the headers-- esp the driver's side
- Elevate the front suspension w/ a jack to lower the tie rod arm for much needed driver's side clearance. I started w/ the front tires on ramps...
- unbolt the coils and flip them onto the intake
- unbolt the computer and flip it over to the firewall

The end result is probably 75-100% increase in exhast "roar" when accellerating, but pretty much stock sounding under normal driving/ engine load. there is a little bit of a drone under accelleration, but not much and it goes away when you lift off the throttle.

Questions / Curiosities:
- Why does the steering nut have to be replaced? I did replace it w/ the one from the SLP kit, but the old one looked fine to me...
- Dumb question that I already know the answer to: How necessary is O2-safe antisieze on the O2 sensors. Mine are currently installed w/o any anti-sieze and was wondering if it was worth a trip to the store to get some...

 

What lift to use?

Just ordered my Kooks 1 3/4" lt's 1300 degree jet hot coated today from brandon at Maryland Speed. I work at a dealership and am able to get into the shop on the weekends. I was wanting to know what type of lift would be the best to use. we have a 4 arm design that slide under the car and raise it on the frame. or we have a drive on that you just drive onto ramps and it exposes the underside. What is my best option?