If I had to guess, I'd say that code is throwing you into "Open Loop", not limp mode. You can barely drive the car in limp mode.

Can't answer the other part, but if it was me, I'd fix the wire, and borrow someone's HP Tuners or a scanner from O'Reilly's to clear the code...then replace the wire if it doesn't help.

You also should check for blown fuses. Would have to break out the manuals, but I think that is protected by the same fuse the powers the O2 sensors.

 

Maybe I should actually read your entire post before responding.

 

its just wire. cut out the bad spot, solder and heatshrink to repair as needed.

 

this is really better than replacing the wire with origional?

and if it's in open loop, and the problem is resolved, then it will automatically go back into normal ops/closed loop/whatever, right?

 

pretty sure the only way to replace that wire with original is a whole harness. I repair wiring in cars all the time. So not a big deal.

 

Are there any systems in modern cars that cannot tolerate a broken wire? Common sense says that a wire is a wire, and a good repair will be just as good as new, but back when I worked on aircraft, I know there were some systems that were so sensitive to resistance changes that you were not allowed to replace the wire.

OP, some codes will clear on their own, and some won't.

 

Gerry, the only systems in a car that are so sensitive that a quality splice could be a problem are the CAN wires and Airbags. Airbags are the only circuits in a car that are actually monitored for resistance.

Ive repaired CAN several times with great success. Airbags I wont fuck with.

 

Gerry, the only systems in a car that are so sensitive that a quality splice could be a problem are the CAN wires and Airbags. Airbags are the only circuits in a car that are actually monitored for resistance.

Ive repaired CAN several times with great success. Airbags I wont smurf with.

lol

Don't blame you.

 

Check Fuse and repair wire, then sensor, its possible the sensor is still good. With the ECU seeing a bad knock sensor it could've put u into the low octane table, don't know why this would cause surging unless that table was altered.

 

When you get kicked into Open Loop, I'm pretty sure that the ECM defaults back to the VE table just like if you had a MAF failure...and I think most tuners give it little attention unless it is a strictly speed density tuned.

 

All great info, thanks. But just to verify, if the ecu kicked out of normal parameters (eg. Into a low octane table, open loop, etc...), it would return to normal ops on its own once the problem is solved, correct. I mean is there any chance it could get stuck in some lower performance mode even if everything else is green?

 

If I could answer that question, I would. I do know that some codes will clear themselves (stored in history), but I just don't know if that one will or not.

If you haven't checked for blown fuses, stop and do that now...in both fuse blocks. Look for something called Engine Sensors.

 

Knock sensor doesnt get Vref. it generates its own voltage via piezo.

All codes in an ECM will self-clear in 80 drive cycles (not key cycles) or less if the problem is not seen again. Knock sensor is a second trip monitor, so the engine will resume normal function as soon as the issue is corrected.

 

Thanks, love you guys :wub:

 

As Konnie said, just cut out the bad wire and solder in new wire. It won't hurt anything.

 

Let us know if the surging stops,