Considering the questions you're now asking, my suggestion would be to pay Ed his very reasonable fee to spec a proper cam package out for you, his prices are very good for what you get...and I can say that with authority because we sell similar parts and I know what the costs are. All knowledge is not free, and in this case you are paying a little extra over a shelf stock price for knowledge and experience.

 

I don't see how $800 is a lot for cam with pushrods and dual spring kit. I would say you are only paying like $50 more than a similar package with an off-the shelf grind (which is definitely worth it IMO). What's $50 when you look at the total price for parts, install, and tune.

You can also just get the custom cam from Ed and buy your own pushrods and springs, not that I would see a good reason to.

Whether you need double springs or not depends on the cam - lift, aggressiveness of the lobes. Most people do dual springs.

Also, you probably already know this, but you're going to leave quite a bit of power on the table if you get a cam but don't get headers as well.

 

A 112LSA will improve your acceleration in our heavy cars. The size cams you are looking at are VERY streetable, you can go alot larger and still be streetable, it all depends on what you consider streetable. Your opinion of it is going to be vastly different than everyone else's on here.

The price Ed is asking for a cam package is NOT overpriced considering what others have already said, he KNOWS what he is doing and after you tell him what you want he tailors it to your desires, nothing wrong with paying a few bucks to get it right the first time. Do yourself a favor and find all the parts/pieces you will need and price them individually, then see the amount you end up with. I think you will be surprised.

 

I run a 224 cam on a 112 LSA--VERY Streetable

 

A couple things:

1.) 2 days is not enough research. I've been reading about cams for 8 months and can still barely make a decision.

2.) Take a look at Texas Speed they have some good mid range cam packages. Note their cam packages are only slightly cheaper than Ed's.

3.) IMO go with a dual valve spring kit. I'd prefer not to get something that will just get me by. Like if you had 500hp and you bought a clutch that is rated to handle 500hp. It may not last very long. I'd rather buy something that will handle much more than what I'm going to be putting it through that way I know it will last.

George

 

My opinion is drive cars with different size cams in them...your wanting a cam for more power but not much lope and midrange power that's kinda defeating the purpose I think? Why not just mill the heads, and get some headers? Would drive just as stock and gain about same power if not more.

But if your set on a cam I run a vrx4 from vengeance and it's relatively streetable, a vrx3 is a very streetable can and would suit your needs sounds like. Ron at vengeance is also a great guy to deal with, shame he doesn't sponsor here anymore. I've never drove a FTI can but from what I've read you won't go wrong there either. And many will tell you...

IT'S ALL IN THE TUNE

 

"Can" is supposed to be cam...smurf autocorrect!!

 

Includes: FTI's price
Custom Designed Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
PAC Racing 1518 or 1519 Beehive Valve Springs
FTI Seven Degree Chromemoly Retainers
FTI Hardened Seven Degree Valve Locks
Steel Shelled Viton Valve Seals
FTI Pro-Series Hardened Push Rods
$975 with FREE ground shipping!/


224/228 .581/.588 114 Comp Cams Price: $379.99 hinson
Beehive Valve Spring Kit #1XL: $495 from fti
Comp Cams 5/16" Hi-Tech Chromemoly Pushrods Price: $129.99 hinson
1,004.98.

Either way its roughly the same price but you get a spec'd shaft from Ed that will be exactly what you want instead of picking and choosing based on what you read on the interwebz. Ed would be my first choice.

 

If you want a bump in power on a budget that still behaves like stock, pick up a set of used 243 heads and an LS2 cam from the FS section.

 

I would look into a set of 243's to start with, you will pick up power without changing the street manners. More flow, more compression.

 

Do you plan on getting headers? If not all the cams mentioned work be very poor choices. You can make good power without headers but it needs the right design camshaft, look at the gt11.

Generally speaking a lower lea makes the power come sooner but it also peaks sooner and starts to fall off faster. A higher lsa takes a little more rpm to start making power but it will go further and not fall off as fast. If you want a quiet smooth idle you want 115lsa or higher. I have a EPS cam with 113lsa and I was able to tune most of the pope out but there is still some. The type of exhaust you have will also factor into the lope/chop.

 

Do a search on Google for the EPS 222/226 115lsa cam. Quiet lobes, not much chops with a good tune and makes awesome power for its size

 

I was the same way looking for cams. But 2 days is nOthing looking at cams. I've been looking at specs and cams and all supporting mods... Get a pair of headers and go from there... You might not want to change your cam after that... If you're looking for street manners, don't touch your car at all especially if it's a DD...

I called Texas speed and they were the kindest people and very very very helpful and extremely honest, they talked me OUT of a couple parts I DIDNT need and into the ones I do...ask for Aaron.. I called them about 20 times just asking question until I was content and they sat there and explained all day until I was more than satisfied. Give them a call, they can put together a kit you want for a good price and they'll tell you what supporting mods are reccomended and even if you don't buy it, they still will walk you through every thing. That's just my .02. Tell them joe from NY with the torquer v3 kit and 102 lsxr manifold told you to call, I bet they'd start laughing.

 

Texas Speed has their single spring cam kits on sale right now for $600, so I'd say it's a lot cheaper. For streetable cams, Texas Speed has the 220R, 224R , and 228R all with your choice of LSA. Before moving up to my current cam, I had the TR 224 114 cam (nearly the same as the TSP 224R) and I will tell you it's very streetable, tons of torque, and I even used the stock converter. Half the people I met could not even tell I had a cam from listening to the car idle. Yes, you can use beehive springs for the smaller cams like I mentioned.

 

so far this sounds more like what i am after. not being able to tell i have a cam.

also to those of you suggesting I purchase/install headers before thinking about a cam, i actually have a set of dynatech supermaxx longtubes with catted mids waiting to be put in. so ideally i would like to install the cam soon after that way i can get a tune for everything at once rather than get a tune for the headers and then later for the cam.

 

As respects your worry about a smaller cam profile - all you need to do is look at my sig. That FTI cam is fantastic on the street and at the track.

On the cost of a custom cam - you get what you pay for. Do you want a setup that works in unison with all the other parts on your car to maximize its potential or a cam designed for the basic masses that probably does not work to its potential. Note - I use shortties - oh NOES! But then again the cam was designed for a restricted exhaust.

Includes: FTI's price
Custom Designed Hydraulic Roller Camshaft
PAC Racing 1518 or 1519 Beehive Valve Springs
FTI Seven Degree Chromemoly Retainers
FTI Hardened Seven Degree Valve Locks
Steel Shelled Viton Valve Seals
FTI Pro-Series Hardened Push Rods
$975 with FREE ground shipping!/


224/228 .581/.588 114 Comp Cams Price: $379.99 hinson
Beehive Valve Spring Kit #1XL: $495 from fti
Comp Cams 5/16" Hi-Tech Chromemoly Pushrods Price: $129.99 hinson
1,004.98.

Either way its roughly the same price but you get a spec'd shaft from Ed that will be exactly what you want instead of picking and choosing based on what you read on the interwebz. Ed would be my first choice.

Couldn't agree more.

Steve

 

My custom cam by ed is spot on what I wanted so far. I haven't beat on since I got to tune it but mine has some chop and drives just like stock with it untuned.

 

Lingenfelter GT2-3 Camshaft & Spring Kit 350-383-427 LS1, LS2, LS6 207/220 .571/.578 118.5 CL $440 from Maryland Speed. This cam idles like stock at 700 rpms.

 

very streetable with a decent 15 rwhp gain depending on supporting mods

 

Headers and to a lesser degree a cam will increase the exhaust sound a little. That vid clip you heard of my car was with catless mids. If you run high flow cats, that'll knock the noise down a tad. If you want a smoother idle, get the 224R cam in 115 LSA. The TPS 220 cam is truly stealthy, but might be a bit too small in my opinion. 87LC2 brought up a good point, a pair of 243 heads would really wake up that LS1 combined with a small cam.

 

im guessing you guys can tell I am looking for something as stealth as i can get, not too into the whole race car sounding everyday driver, as weird as that sounds me being 24 and all.
how did you like the driveability of the 224r cam down low? havent really ever looked into heads, if i found a set used for a good price would i be able to use the valve springs from them with the 224r cam?

243 heads are what came stock with the LS2 if i recall, so pretty much I get more flow right?

 

I just checked what a cam package for an off the shelf cam is from one of the better vendors. Listed for $730. What do you find excessive about $800 from FTI since they will make one tailored to your requirements?

Do you have to pass emissions in CA? You can use LTs there?

 

yeah i have to pass emissions and dont thinks LTs are legal here, but i have a guy for that so not worried about it.

ive seen cam packages from Texas speed for $600, thats cam, springs and pushrods.

 

The stock springs on the 243 heads are not stout enough for any of the cams we are talking about. Yes, the 243 heads were used on LS2 and LS6 engines, they definitely flow better than the 241 heads used on the LS1. When I had my TR224 cam, I made 418 tq @ 3650 rpm, that's a bunch of low end torque. With my current cam, I make about 55 hp more, but 10 tq less.

 

Don't forget, horsepower doesn't mean dick unless you have the torque to get moving. These heavy bastards need just that. Ideally you're going to want a cam which offers good torque.

 

came across the vid. this is as loud/choppy/lopey as i would want for my setup. with this in mind, have any of you guys heard or had any experience with the cams from eps, specifically the one in the vid, EPS 222/226- no specs on lift- 113 LSA

 

Don't get LT's for california emissions sake, it's honestly not worth the once every 2 years emissions check heartache, because none of them are CARB legal, and even if they are you usually have to have the paperwork proving they are legal EVERY SINGLE TIME.

You have magnaflow, which is good because they are a bit quieter, they will make it easier to conceal the cam you'll have under the hood.

Whatever you do, make sure you run it through this calculator first, punch in all your specs:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/overlap-calc.php

You want to make sure you are at a 0 or negative overlap, a positive will have a negative effect on emissions and will make it harder for you to get it tuned and also make it pass smog. California is a smog nazi state, believe me, I used to be a smog tech. With that being said don't trip off having a cam in your vehicle because that mod is within the engine, and no one can fail you for that because it is not a "visual modification" CHP or local cops won't be able to give you much shit over it either.

 

04goat6mt. I have that exact cam in my 6.0 and it has a little bit of lope because of the 113lsa but getting rid of the lope has a lot to do with the tune and exhaust (a dual in dual out resonator can actually smooth a bit of the lope out, i noticed this when i had one installed). I originally tuned out most of the lope dialing it it but decided to tweak a few things and drop the idle down to 650 to get a little chop. It would easily idle at 850 or so in your manual car and sound very tame.

lift is close to .600. I bought it with upgraded pac 1519 springs for $675. don't get the cheap beehive springs.

It's got really good low end and midrange grunt. I can actually lay rubber from a stand still in my auto no stall car.... and everyone said cam with no stall is a dog down low, this is definitely stronger down low then my stock cam.

 

^ even if i know a guy, who im pretty sure will pass my at least on the visual inspection?

 

To help your decision-making process, I've attached the official GTO cam decision flowchart. (I created the flowchart using Visio, but shamelessly plagarized the content from another member on here)

Your tuner should be able to control the lope with the tune or idle. I had NicD do my tune. He asked if I wanted it to idle smooth or choppy. I told him I wanted it as choppy as possible! He accommodated me and I love the lope of the idle. To each his own.