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subframe bushing noise

7.1K views 22 replies 15 participants last post by  mf2kta  
#1 ·
So, I recently installed the Whiteline subframe bushings. I love how it planted the rear of the car and tightened everything up, especially in corners. I hate the road noise. Hate it. Does anyone have first hand knowledge if Pedders bushings would be more quiet? In looking at pics, they appear to be built slightly different. I'm willing to sacrifice handling to have the noise go away and go back to stock if necessary.

Current mods: Kollar springs, Koni shocks/struts, poly bushings in front, poly sway bar bushings with stock bars. The rear is basically stock rubber except for diff insert.

Thanks!
 
#4 ·
I had the energy suspension rear subframe bushings and the clunking/banging noises were terrible. I followed the instructions exactly, torqued to the right spec with brand new $15.00 bolts from the dealer. I greased up the bushings properly and verified the alignment was dead on afterwards.

I called energy and they swore I installed them wrong. I felt more rigidity out of the car by doing subframe connectors instead of those bushings. I went back to the stock bushings and I don't regret doing so.
 
#6 ·
The only way to get rid of the noise is to go back to the stock bushings. I have the Whitelines also. I had tried the BMR's but they created more noise than the Whitelines.
 
#7 ·
I wonder if the rear cradle alignment could effect road noise. If you use the alignment tool, the 2 large cradle bolts are not in contact with the bushing sleeves. I have ES bushings, used the alignment tool, and lubricated the bushings well and I don't notice much road noise.
 
#13 ·
My Pedders definitly are noisy ... But I love the trade off / Stock was crap handling by comparison
 
#14 ·
Just to clarify...I'm talking about road noise. Not the drive line "clunking" that GTO's seem to have.

So, I installed the bushing with the thicker top spacer. With the thicker top spacer, there is constant contact between the subframe and the frame of the car. With the factory bushing, there is no constant contact, which allows for some articulation and movement of the subframe.

I figured that most of the road noise was coming through that top spacer and into the vehicle.

When I mashed the gas pedal from a roll, it introduced the most violent wheel hop that my vehicle has ever had. VIOLENT!! Wheel hop that had never been there before prior to the new bushings.

I removed the thick upper spacer and replaced it with the thinner upper spacer. 75% of the road noise is now gone. There is not a constant connection between frame and spacer to transmit the noise. The VIOLENT wheel hop is now gone too. In my simple mind, I believe that that the subframe/rearend needs some kind of ability to move and adjust. Again, it worked for my car...maybe not everybody's. Thanks for the replies.
 
#16 ·
Thank you for the detailed info. Did you happen to take any pics of this? Thanks!
 
#18 ·
I used the energy suspension kit which had the subframe bushings, I did not notice any additional road noise, clunking, wheel hop, or any other issue. Sounds like something has to be loose for those symptoms to be present.
 
#23 ·
I couldn't take it anymore. I put the stock bushings back in and installed BMR subframe connectors at the same time. Frame is rigid, rear end is back to being a little squirmy. Everything has a give-and-take. I'll take a little squirm from the rear end to get rid of that howling from the road noise. It's a night and day difference. As a side note, I have a 2013 3 series BMW with 20" wheels. It has quite a bit of road noise due to the large wheels and run flat tires. That noise is in the back ground, the noise from these bushings was just loud and very prominent. I did notice the extra weight from the connectors. Time for a little cam and ported intake!