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Dexcool coolant. Still safe?

11K views 40 replies 28 participants last post by  mistermike  
#1 ·
I was thinking of flushing the coolant in my car this weekend. It has 82k miles on it, so I figured it was time.
I did a quick Google search to make sure I knew which type of coolant to use, and noticed a LOT of websites talking about lawsuits against GM for Dexcool destroying engines.

Is it still safe or advisable to use Dexcool in our cars? If not, could someone recommend a brand/type to go with? I would like to pick up something from the autoparts store on the way home tonight and do it tonight or tomorrow. I am also thinking of buying one of those home flush kits which connects a T-adapter to a heater hose to make sure it is a complete flush. Anyone ever had any bad experiences with these? I have used them before, but not on our cars.
 
#2 ·
I drain and refill any car i own with dexcool once a year. Call me anal but its cheap insurance.
 
#3 ·
Most of the Dexcool issues you see are for older GM vehicles that were the first ones to use it. There should be no problem with continued use of Dexcool in the GTO as long as you fill the system fully with the proper mix of coolant and distilled water. If you wish you can also use as an alternate one of the "universal" OAT coolants such as Prestone All Makes All Models or Peak Global, those are compatible with Dexcool and are an acceptable substitute.
It is NOT recommended to use standard coolant in a system that has been filled with Dexcool, deposits can form as a result even after a flush because you never get all the old stuff out.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the info.
I just called Pep Boys and found they charge $100 for a coolant flush. I have always done these myself and am questioning whether I want to be lazy and let them do it, or just get off my can and do it myself. I just hate having to figure out what to do with all that coolant left over, since pouring it down the drain isnt the eco thing to do. :)
 
#7 ·
There is really no need to do a full flush unless the system is dirty or contaminated, which it should not be as long as it has been kept topped up and nothing that doesn't belong in there has been put in (improper coolant or really bad tap water). A DIY drain-and-fill should be sufficient and will save you $.
As for disposal, use a drain pan and afterward pour the used coolant into the containers from the new stuff. Get extra containers if you need more. You can then take them to any parts store or shop for recycling, they are required by law to take it.
 
#40 ·
There is really no need to do a full flush unless the system is dirty or contaminated, which it should not be as long as it has been kept topped up and nothing that doesn't belong in there has been put in (improper coolant or really bad tap water). A DIY drain-and-fill should be sufficient and will save you $.
As for disposal, use a drain pan and afterward pour the used coolant into the containers from the new stuff. Get extra containers if you need more. You can then take them to any parts store or shop for recycling, they are required by law to take it.
Yea, unless you're a dickhead that brings his oil in containers ... that are in another bagged container full of oil, effectively getting oil everywhere when he pulls the containers out. Told that sonuvabitch to pack his shit up and go somewhere else ... not too many times I've been more furious.
 
#9 ·
is there any info on when GM says to flush, 69k and still running cool...i would hate to open a can of worms.
 
#10 ·
I think they say 100,000 or 150,000.

I didn't change my coolant in my Grand Prix until 150,000 miles and I had no issues (crossed over 200,000 miles yesterday morning). Of course, I knew I was supposed to top it off with Dexcool compatible coolant, so that could be the difference in many who have issues.

Dexcool horror stories seem to be vastly overrated; it just requires proper maintenance.
 
#13 · (Edited)
I'm about at this point too with 87K. My understanding is that having the system mechanically flushed by a professional is much more thorough than buying the off the shelf do it yourself flush kits. Whether or not it's really needed (professional flush), I'm not sure, but it sounds like cheap insurance with some of the issues I've personally know about with Dexcool. I'm probably going to spend the $100 or whatever the shop charges for a "power flush". Anyone know any reason not to do the professional flush, other than saving $$'s?
 
#15 ·
called the dealer to get a price on a complete system flush.....$150-$175 depending on how much fluid they remove
 
#16 ·
whats the color look like?...if it's still red (mine is) like from the factory, i would say it's still doin it's job...if it has turned brownish and there looks to be some deposits then i would change it out....aww...with 89K miles i would change it out no matter what it looks like.... :)

i bought my GOAT in march of 04' and i'm still running the factory Dexcool (40K)....when i change it, it will be with Dexcool...
 
#17 ·
Dex-cool stays good for around 150K miles, if your coolant is changing colors or dirty looking you probably already had bad coolant a long time ago. Buy some test strips and check the glycol and nitrate level of the coolant to see if you need a flush or not. Why flush good coolant when you can spend the money elsewhere?
 
#19 ·
I switched mine over to Motorcraft gold. Spent a whole saturday at work doing it, too, to get as much of the crap out as i can.

My car is extremely low miles, and i flushed in water. ran it. drained it, back flushed it, filled it, ran it, ect, like 5 times till all i was getting out was clean water. Then i back flushed the individual parts (heater core, radiator, block) 3 more times just to be sure.

I dotn trust any coolant to last 5 years. I just dont.
 
#24 · (Edited)
Is it ok to flush with regular tap water? Or did you use distilled for the flush as well? My car just hit 50k and as far as I know its still on the original coolant. Was thinking of flushing it soon.

**Edit** looks like you can flush with tap water then use distilled water for the final flush with the drain open.
 
#23 ·
Did you know you are paying almost as much for water as you are for straight antifreeze?
 
#21 ·
btrotter. If you use one of the "T" fittings, make sure it is not the plastic type--or just use it and then replace the heater hose. If you leave the plastic "T" in the line, it will heat harden and then spring a leak when you don't want it to. I used one years ago and left in the line--and it blew out on the freeway.
dw
 
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#32 ·
Lol!!!
 
#35 ·
No it doesn't because you just went from 50/50 to 75% water and 25% antifreeze.

You either use straight 50/50 in a bottle in which case your paying for the 50% water or 100% antifreeze and provide your own water.

Either way you need two gallons.
100% Antifreeze "$10" and a gallon of water or 2 Gallons of premixed 50/50 Antifreeze "$20" to water.

My head hurts, but using 50/50 costs twice as much correct?
 
#41 ·
The airplane will still take off.