Use masking tape to tape off the area your cutting. Then use a traditional cut off wheel, or hack saw. You will have a nicer cleaner cut with the hack saw.

 

Wrap it in electrical tape before you cut it with the wheel. Tiwce around is fine.

Otto

 

tape it real tight with GOOD electric tape then use a cutoff disc or hacksaw, yes, really.

 

bwahaha.. too funny. same answer all within 30seconds

 

did not think of a hacksaw, i will this right now...thanks guys

 

Huge pair of mofo bolt cutters will do the job after you tape up the cut area.

 

bolt bites sometimes wont cut the rubber clean and tear it. no bueno

 

well i have been taping the entire time, it works for a cut through the entire hose, but i think i have to just cut off the steel part and leave the rubber part exposed to put the connectors on.
I cant cut it clean to just get the steel part off.

 

I hear a blow torch works well Being serious I've had good luck using the cutters for PVC pipe. Sharpe blade and able to roll around the hose for a clean cut.

 

i think i have figured it out, im useing the cut disc on the dremel, just going extremely very slow and it is working, 1 done 3 more to go, lol.

 

Die grinder, but if you have a cut off saw like for steel tubing, clamp and cut quick and painless. Tape it too.

 

Hammer & sharp chisel FTW!! Don't knock it til you've tried it. Fast & Clean.

 

A trick I use:

Wrap in tape as all have suggested. Bind it up tight.

Use the dremel cut off wheel but instead of trying to cut through it like a meat saw, walk it around the outside of the hose so that you are progressively moving towards the center.

You want to "climb cut" while doing this. Climb cutting is when the tool pulls itself in the direction of the cut. This does a couple things. It pulls the outer braid down towards the hose. The rubber ends up supporting the outer braid while the cut off wheel is doing its thing. This helps to minimize the bird nest effect. It will also provide a clean edge on the rubber hose. The trick is keeping your cut square to the hose so that it fully purchases inside the fitting.

Be sure to blow the hose out with air afterwards as bits of rubber will collect inside.

an even better thing to do is stuff the hole with a piece of paper towel soaked in a bit of water first to keep any debris from entering. The water keeps the paper towel from possibly smoldering or catching on fire from the sparks and heat coming from the demel too. Not always realistic, especially if cutting from a long coil of hose.

I always hold the hose in a vice and support it as close to the jaws as I can while still having room for my cut off wheel. Clamp the side you want to use so that it does not move. This will also help minimize burrs and keep everything nice and clean looking.

A thing I just thought of is maybe try wrapping a zip tie around the hose. You could then slide it up right to the edge and it will walk itself back as you install the outer nut on the fitting. This may help in keeping the ends of the braid nice and neat as you work that nut over the outside.

Not sure if the zip tie trick will actually work, but it sounds good to me right now.

I keep a small flat head screw driver around too so that I can coax a stubborn wire or two into the hole while walking the fitting on.



Hope this helps.

 

I did what u said about the dremel tool going around it and the "climb cut", that worked so much better. I finally got it all done. The last part you said about walking the fitting on, with the fittings i had i did nto see there to be enough room to put the steel braided part inside, what i had to do was cut the exact amount of steel part off, then slide the fitting on just the rubber part, leaving the steel to go right up to the fitting. Seems to work fine. To get the hoses clean after the cutting i just blew into them real hard, seemed to work, lol.

I just did like a 30 min test drive, and no leaks. Now my injectors dont go over like 50-55% duty at full throttle n/a. Before on stock injectors on motor n/a they did 80-85% duty cycle.

Only thing i noticed i have to figure out is my short trim fuel banks dipped low into the - range, they usually never do that.

 

On my last project, I switched to Aeroquip blue socketless hose. Bye Bye Braided.

I bought a cable cutter for use with braided line. Works better than a bolt cutter.

 

well i just talked to someone at work who will help me do this right. He has done it alot. Man this sucks, lol. Now i have to go get more hose, i bet it is probly expensive.

 

I've done this a few times and it is a real butt pain. if Ur in a large area like LA, there are outfits that will assemble it for U, as they have special tools. And if U buy enuf hose, it hardly costs any more for their labor.

 

The best method I've used to cut the hose is by using compound action tree branch cutters. If the cutter is decent, it will cut the stainless hose with ease.

The hammer and chisel with a steel striking plate also works well, if used with enough strength and/or anger. After building couple of these hose assemblies, you will have lots of anger. LOL.

Use of a pneumatic cut off wheel works well too, if the tool is available. Make sure to flush the hose with mild solvent before installing when doing this.

How I build hose assemblies:

Tightly tape the section that is to be cut with duct tape, or tape of similar strength.
Use methods mentioned above to make SQUARE and CLEAN cuts.

Remove tape used to keep the braid from fraying during the cut. (KingKong401, DO NOT TRIM HOSE BRAID!!! If things are not inserting no matter how hard you try, make sure you are using the proper size hose for the intended hose end. Many people try to insert wrong size hose in to the hose end. It is very interesting to see their results.)
Insert hose into the socket. It helps to have a vice to hold the socket as you push/twist in the hose.

Push/twist in hose until the end of hose bottoms out in the counterbore of the socket. Use a clean punch to expand the hose within the socket to aid in inserting the hose end nipple. Make sure the hose is still butted up to the counter bore.

*many do not do this step, but it is important.
Mark hose with a marker or tape in relation to the socket. This will help you notice any backing out of the hose from the socket as it is assembled.

(Some hose end sockets (the part where the hose is inserted before assembly) are left hand threaded, i.e. Russell. This helps to install the hose in to the socket and to help retain it during tightening.)

Lightly lube nipple and threads with light oil to prevent thread seizing and to aid the insertion of the nipple into the hose/socket assembly.

Use proper AN wrenches or Polished chrome stubby wrenches to tighten hose ends together.

Flush and pressure test the hose assembly.

Dennis
Russell project engineer